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LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
Trend: soft goth

The soft goth movement shows no signs of slowing. Whether oozing punk nostalgia or vampy glamour, the runways showcased plenty of grungy, smoky eyes (at Dior, Schiaparelli and Jason Wu – pictured here) as well as deep cherry lips (at Dolce & Gabbana, Ferrari and Roksanda).
Trend: soft goth

In contrast to the winged shape at Jason Wu (above), the execution of smoky eyes at Etro was sootier, as though lived-in. Note the pairing with polished skin and natural lips for a chic finish that looks luxurious while still rock 'n' roll.
Trend: soft goth

When it came to vampy lips, at Roksanda a lip lacquer was layered on top of a deep purple lipstick for a glass-like shine that was both punky yet polished.
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Trend: bold black lips

However, nothing in beauty speaks to spooky season like black lipstick – and this autumn the surprisingly flattering lipstick shade is back. Seen at Rodarte, Mark Fast and Bora Aksu (pictured here), fashion dictates that it's time to dust off those dark lippies.
Trend: bold black lips

Even more strikingly, black lipstick was paired with absent brows – or at least brows that took a back seat. As demonstrated here at Mark Fast, a bold lip looks modern doing the talking alone (and looks incredible paired with pastel clothing, anchoring an ensemble in autumn over spring).
Trend: bold black lips

At Rodarte, the models wore full-on witchy beauty, with graphic abstract eyeliner adding balance to the black lipstick.
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Trend: frosty silver eyes

This season hailed the comeback of cool-toned eyeshadow, specifically silver, which has long been neglected in favour of warmer metal tones. Chanel led the charge with models showcasing silvery smoky eyes that looked contemporary thanks to naked lips and relaxed locks.
Trend: frosty silver eyes

Elsewhere at the autumn/winter 2023 shows, statement pops of silver were placed on the eyes at Chloé (pictured), as well as Shiatzy, Off-White and Slimi Studio.
Trend: all that glimmers

Taking the trend for metallics a step further, lines of rhinestones were graphically placed beneath the eyes at Louis Vuitton, symbolic of the mood for experimental make-up this year.
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Trend: all that glimmers

Meanwhile, at Giambattista Valli, models' eyes looked like jewels adorned with coloured foil resembling mosaics.
Trend: all that glimmers

While at David Koma, a contemporary take on classic red lips was delivered. For a textural treat for the eyes, models wore red glossy upper lips with red rhinestone-embellished under lips.
Trend: sketchy wings

Artsy make-up was interpreted in other ways this fashion week too, with sketchy eyeliner being another creative take. We love the 'M' shaped wings at Paul & Joe, which for minimal effort give maximum impact to an otherwise nude look.
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Trend: sketchy wings

Less graphic, but similarly sketchy, the go-faster liner stripes at Alessanda Rich demonstrate a nice way to update classic wings.
Trend: sketchy wings

At Vivetta, lower-lash extensions gave the impression of an abstract, drawn-on flutter, demonstrating that playful make-up needn't necessarily be about bright or bold colours.
Trend: pops of pastel

Speaking of which, spring-like shades were a surprise hit on the autumn/winter catwalks, bringing some joyful colour to the fashion and beauty forecast. From the bright sparks at Giambattista Valli and David Koma (both above) to pops of pastel at Anna Sui, Victoria Beckham, Prada, Diesel and Carolina Herrera (pictured here), it reads that the future is bright if you want it to be.
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Trend: pops of pastel

Watercolour washes were the vibe at Richard Quinn, where matte finishes contrasted with high-shine hair.
Trend: pops of pastel

Meanwhile, Victoria Beckham chose to debut her new EyeWear Shadow Sticks in an array of vibrant colours. As above, they were worn against otherwise minimal make-up for a modern take on bright beauty.
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